Golf Engineering Associates Technical Help Series

Large Turf and Golf Controllers

Large sites, meaning those with more than 20 or 30 valves controlling the irrigation system, enter into the world of satellite controllers, pedestals and sophisticated programming. A satellite controllerpedestal controller is one that is part of a system, but standing (operating) on it's own. You will find that nearly all controllers in this class can operate either as their own independent timer, called "stand-alone" mode, or as part of a large network of controllers tied into a central control computer. The heavy-duty plastic or stainless steel cabinets are made to combat vandalism, weather and golf balls. A pedestal is just that: the controller is mounted within a free-standing box bolted to a concrete base. Wire enters from conduits in the concrete.

Typically these sophisticated "clocks" are capable of operating 6 or more independent programs, sometimes simultaneously, and have a long laundry list of features. When choosing controllers, it is likely that you'll purchase a system made by whoever manufactured the sprinkler heads. While this is the most common situation, it is not absolutely necessary: any valve (or valve-in-head sprinkler) will work with any controller. The equipment should be a commonly available brand, and when you get to the size of golf irrigation try to stick with the main manufacturers. Our #1 tip for superintendents: even if you think you will never have a central computer, ALWAYS install a communication cable when you install a new system because the cost is in the excavation, not the wire. 

Residential and Small Commercial

First of all, use common sense when purchasing a small controller. If you have four valves, get a unit that has at least four stations. We recommend getting "the next size up" so you can add a couple valves without changing out the controller. If it is going to be mounted outside, get an outdoor controller. One thing is certain: with controllers of any kind you get what you pay for. Do not be tempted by the least expensive unit....an excellent residential/small comm. controller can be purchased in the $50 dollar range. Secondly, most of us have a pre-disposed comfort level when doing any kind of electrical work. Some of us get nervous plugging into an outdoor socket, fearful of electric shock. Others seem to have absolutely no problem diving right into a high voltage electrical panel. Luckily, irrigation system controllers cater to both crowds. The most important tip we can give you is to follow the manufacturer's directions carefully.

Plug-In Controllers:

What could be easier? Find a suitable indoor or outdoor place to mount the controller that is within a few feet of an outlet, usually directly above one is the best spot. When mounting, make sure you use the right hardware to make it firm; i.e. drywall anchors, concrete tapping hardware, indoor controlleretc. An indoor mounted controller will necessitate bringing in the irrigation wires from the valves outside, so make sure it's in a convenient spot like a garage or shed. Snake your wires along the building foundation, joints in the driveway or other means of getting the cables from valve to controller without it being seen. If you have the controller on one side of an impassable concrete driveway and the valves on the other, you have not planned properly. If you are doing a plug-in installation outdoors, make sure that you have either an outdoor controller or a cabinet for it to reside in. Waterproof outlet protectors will keep the plug dry, and it will also help if you locate the controller under an overhang or other protection.

Wired Controllers:Outoor Controller

If you have enough experience (or courage) with electrical work, it may be better to wire the controller directly into an existing panel, either indoor or out. All controllers are on a three-wire system: one hot, one nuetral and a ground wire. Make sure you wire all of these correctly and ground the unit to the panels' main ground. Follow the manufacturer's directions carefully during installation and call an electrician if you have any doubts! In the end, the direct-wired installation is cleaner and more permanent. All wires should be housed in conduit.

Programming:

This is simple: follow the directions exactly, step-by-step. Put the battery back-up in the unit and change it once in awhile. Programming a controller is the same a programming a thermostat, an alarm system or any number of electrical devices......it's easier than the VCR. Remember to irrigate in the middle of the night, 1 to 5 a.m., and don't overdo it. If you have the valves set for 30 minutes a day every day of the week, you're probably overdoing it.

Central Computer-Based Controllers:

Larger irrigation systems usually have a central controller. If not, the various satellites will be operating out in the field in stand-alone mode, all separate from each other. Unless you keep all of them programmed exactly as they should be, it will be hard to handle more than 5 or 6 controllers with 24 to 64 stations (valves) on each. That is why central controllers were invented: to tie all of the satellites together into one organized irrigation system that can be controlled from one terminal. Electro-mechanical central controllers are still available, but they are severely outdated. For those who absolutely refuse to learn how to use a computer there are touch-pad controllertouch-pad controllers which are a step above electro-mechanical but not nearly as advanced as a computer system. The majority of irrigation managers will opt for a central control computer which has an unbelievable number of programming features. The list is WAY too long to get into on this page.....but you may contact us for our recommendations. Once again, the safest bet when choosing a central control package is to stay with the commonly available, time-tested brands which continue to improve their systems and have support personnel to help you out when problems arise. The upper cost for a computerized central control system, without satellites, is currently about $50,000; the lowest cost is about $10,000. The cost may be frightening, but if you consider the time, effort and money invested in a new $200,000 to $2 million (or more) irrigation system the cost is well worth it. Without a central computer you will have a very difficult time computer controllercontrolling every single valve and head out in the field to their fullest watering efficiency. That's what it's all about at the upper levels of irrigation: precise control. We strongly recommend a computerized central control system because we know that it is the key to running the system at it's peak performance year after year. In the long run, your investment will easily be recouped in time savings, water savings and less wear-and-tear to your piping and pumping systems. Some of the most important features to look for in a central control package include:

  • Ability to control each and every valve or head from the computer; ability to turn on any program at any time; ability to have simultaneous program running automatically.
  • Data logging: a record-keeping function that gives you daily, weekly, monthly and year after year reports on the status and operation of the irrigation system. Valuable info such as number of gallons used, number of heads gone bad, pipe breaks, etc., all available.
  • Radio-control interface: radio control is an incredible maintenance tool. When you investigate control systems inquire the availability/compatibility for radio control.
  • Alarm conditions, automatic shut-down capabilities and ability to accept data from a free-standing weather station on site.
  • Should be Windows-based and upgradable. Find out about technical support and their policy on software upgrades.
  • Hire a qualified irrigation consultant to organize the programming for computerized central control systems.

 

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